The island of Jersey, off the northern coast of France, has one of the largest tidal ranges in the world. At low tide, the island nearly doubles in size.
Since my wife and I are spending a week wandering around the coastline, I lazily suggest we consider doing our walking at high tide—when the island is smaller. Truthfully, the tides are of little consequence.
The trails remain stunningly beautiful, and only the many stretches of beach that line the coast change—expanding at low tide to offer the choice of walking on silky sand or along higher ground
The Channel Islands are the most southerly of the British Isles—an archipelago tucked into the Bay of Saint-Malo, about 22 kilometres off France’s Cherbourg Peninsula and 161 kilometres from the south coast of England.
Technically, they are not part of the United Kingdom but are Crown Dependencies. The islands became part of the Anglo-Norman realm when William the Conqueror became King of England in 1066. In 1204, when King John lost Normandy to France, the islanders chose to remain loyal to the English Crown.
My wife and I arrived on Jersey, the largest of the Channel Islands, in the early afternoon and jumped on a double-decker bus from the airport to our hotel in St. Aubin.
The tide was out. Boats sat high and dry in the town’s pretty harbour, like toys left in the sand. There was the distinctive smell of decay laid bare, and the salty sea.
Black-headed gulls, ringed plovers, and dunlins screeched and cried above the tidal flats—a beautiful sound in this setting.
Our plan for the week was to do some hiking. Jersey is characterized by steep granite cliffs and sheltered bays to the north, sweeping sandy beaches to the west and south, and rocky beaches and quaint harbours with a view of France to the east. Though there are some wonderful inland trails, we decided to concentrate on walking all four coasts.
Strolling South
We warmed up with a pleasant afternoon stroll along the ocean promenade from St. Aubin to Saint Helier. Sanderlings, redshanks, oystercatchers, curlews, and turnstones ran along the exposed beaches, scavenging for trapped molluscs, crabs, and crustacea.
Reaching the capital, with the sea still receding, we trekked out the causeway to the 16th-century Elizabeth Castle. Not in time to see the midday cannon fired, we explored the fortress and the tiny hermitage that housed the reclusive Saint Helier in the 6th century. If the tide is high, visitors can reach the castle via an amphibious shuttle
The next morning, we bussed west to the Corbière Lighthouse—the first concrete lighthouse in the British Isles—set on a rocky outcrop at the island’s south-west corner. Our plan was to walk the 12-kilometre coastal path back to St. Aubin. At high tide, the lighthouse rises above the swelling sea; at low tide, it can be reached on foot.
We ambled along the cliff-top path, passing St. Brelade’s Bay Church and its 6th-century Fishermen’s Chapel before descending to St. Brelade’s Bay—a gloriously expansive sweep of sand. After pausing for lunch at the beachside Oyster Box, we climbed up to the Noirmont headland for stunning vistas over St. Aubin’s Bay.
Jersey boasts a multi-layered history—from Neolithic times to medieval castles to a more recent chapter during the Second World War, when Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark became the only British territories occupied by Nazi Germany. The island is scattered with bunkers, pillboxes, and battlements.
Making our way around the gorse-scented crags, we stumbled first upon La Cotte de St. Brelade, a Neanderthal site, and then Battery Lothringen, a coastal artillery installation that is one of the best preserved in Western Europe.
The islands were the most heavily fortified part of Hitler’s vaunted “Atlantic Wall,” a strategy into which he poured resources far outweighing the islands’ strategic value—encouraged by both the Allies, who hoped to divert German troops from northern France, and the Germans stationed here, who saw it as a more desirable posting than the Russian front.
Meandering North
Our favourite hike was from Grosnez Castle on the island’s north-west tip eastward to Grève de Lecq, along the craggy coastline with splendid views out to the other Channel Islands. Puffins and razorbills perched on the bluffs, dolphins swam offshore, and sheep grazed inland. At low tide, seals basked on the exposed rocks, and pale-bellied Brent geese, grebes, mergansers, and egrets waded in the tidal pools.
Ambling East
We bussed to St. Catherine’s Bay and its 19th-century breakwater, then walked south along a well-tended seaside path to Mont Orgueil Castle, a formidable fortress perched on a rocky promontory overlooking Gorey Bay. Its maze of towers, staircases, and secret rooms leads to lofty battlements with views of the French coast.
Wandering West
The most dramatic beach is the eight-kilometre St. Ouen’s Bay on the west coast, where surfers test the breakers and families play on the sand.
We rambled through the adjacent dunes and wetlands before ducking down to the beach for lunch at The Sands, a trendy café run by a former pro surfer. A small wheatear entertained us, singing a melodic tune from a hidden perch in the gorse.
We enjoyed beautiful spring weather, which we had been warned could be unpredictable. At times, Jersey felt almost Mediterranean, with bright wildflowers and palm trees—until a sudden squall swept across the bay to remind us to keep our rain gear close.
After each enchanting walk, we returned to the Somerville Hotel, perched high above the colourful St. Aubin harbour. We walked most of the island’s coastal path during our delightful week here, along a wild landscape sculpted by the sea. At the end of each day, we had earned our dram and a fresh seafood dinner at one of the many excellent quayside restaurants. |
Walking Notes
Getting Around: Jersey’s bus system (LibertyBus) is very efficient. Buy a 7-day pass and explore the whole island. Get dropped off at one spot and hop back on at another after your walk.
Island Hopping: If you have time, visit the neighbouring islands. Guernsey offers a step-back-in-time experience with its floral cliff paths and sleepy towns. Alderney is home to historic fortifications, and car-free Sark and Herm boast beaches to rival the Caribbean.
Occupation: German forces invaded Jersey in July 1940, banning radios, adopting continental time, and ordering residents to drive on the right. On May 9, 2025, Jersey celebrated the 80th anniversary of Liberation Day, marking the end of nearly five years of occupation.
War Tunnels: Learn about life during the occupation at the Jersey War Tunnels. This underground complex, built by the Nazis using forced labour, houses exhibitions that pay tribute to the hardship and heroism of that era.
Information: www.jersey.com
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